By Kai blends Fijian silhouettes with resortwear

Makaira Lee introduced By Kai to the world with a solo presentation at New Zealand Fashion Week, a launch that few emerging designers ever achieve. The debut collection, titled When are you coming home?, featured 29 looks that blend traditional Fijian silhouettes with a modern resortwear edge. Lee, who serves as the brand’s creative director and stylist, constructed the entire show in just over six weeks, relying heavily on the support of her family. It was an intense period of production, but one that established the label’s foundation immediately upon its arrival.

The design philosophy behind By Kai is described as sensual and grounded, with a distinct “tomboy edge.” This aesthetic is not a sudden departure for Lee, but rather a natural evolution of her background. She grew up in Tāmaki Makaurau surrounded by a family of skilled seamstresses. Her mother, Jeannie, who is a talented seamstress herself, worked alongside her to bring the debut collection to life. From fabric selection to final construction, every piece was made locally in Aotearoa. This local focus ensures that the craftsmanship remains central to the brand’s identity from the very start.

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Weaving Heritage into Modern Silhouettes

Lee’s Fijian heritage is woven throughout the collection, serving as the primary source of inspiration. The garments mirror the natural environment and cultural traditions of her childhood, utilizing textured fabrics like raffia, shell, and wood. Silhouettes are often inspired by the draping of saris and men’s sulus, creating a visual language that feels both historical and contemporary. The color palette is led by island tones, while patterns are drawn from tropical flora. These elements connect each garment to the specific environment that shaped Lee’s perspective.

The collection also draws heavily from the resortwear genre, influenced by Lee’s wedding to her husband, Kane, in Fiji. The show opened with natural cotton-canvas looks that nodded to their bridal party. These pieces were finished with traditional Fijian accessories, including the salusalu Kane wore on their wedding day. The narrative then moved into modern resort and effortless occasion-wear, designed for the moments surrounding a destination wedding. It was a deeply personal journey, acting as a love letter to home and the people who become home.

It is rare for a debut to balance such specific cultural references with broad commercial appeal, yet the collection manages to do so by treating tradition as a functional material rather than a costume. By grounding the designs in the tactile reality of local production, the brand avoids the pitfalls of superficial cultural borrowing. The result is a line of clothing that feels specific to its origins without being inaccessible to a wider audience.

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A Family-Driven Production Process

Bringing the collection to life was an intense endeavor, with just over six weeks available for production. Lee worked alongside her mother, Jeannie, to bring the label’s debut collection to life. There was no strict routine; they simply did not stop working. The pressure was high, but the collaborative effort was essential to meeting the deadline.

Launch Details and Future Directions

By Kai’s first drop is expected to launch in November, arriving just in time for the summer season. The ready-to-wear line will feature a selection of styles from the runway, including fringed camisoles, bikini tops, and sheer dresses. Two-piece cargo sets are also part of the initial release. Lee identified the Kai Cargo Set as a personal favorite, noting that it feels “quintessentially me: relaxed, refined and a little tomboy.” This piece exemplifies the brand’s ability to blend practicality with style.

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Lee’s creative process is fueled by music, with artists like Blood Orange, Mk.gee, and Dijon on repeat in the studio. She finds herself most productive at night, when the world is quiet and her son is asleep. For the next five years, Lee hopes By Kai will find its place in the world and become a name people truly connect with. She aims to keep pushing creative boundaries and allow the label to evolve alongside her.

The brand currently operates through Instagram, where it shares behind-the-scenes moments and collection updates. As Lee stated, “I hope the clothes become part of people’s stories: pieces they live in, dance in, fall in love in.”